Travel::Africa:Egypt

November 06, 2007

Looks like Tutankhamen, is Tutankhamen

King Tutankhamen, the 18th dynasty boy king, probably gave the world much more in death than he did in his 19 year life, 11 of those as the king of unified Egypt. His mortuary monument of death does not parallel Khufu's gigantic pyramid at Giza, or Hathshepsut's amazingly modern looking temple at Dier-el-Bahri or Ramses colossi at Abu Simbel. 

But it is the most intact of them all.

It had the sarcophagus - 7 boxed, and the jewelry and the chariots, the golden mask, the four Canopy jars, every single item mentioned by the Book of the dead, give or take a few.

Compiling King Tut's three faces as we know them

Tutankhamun Mask

His golden mask, giving us a glimpse of the face structure. Gold as a precious metal has no effect on me, though I remember standing awe struck in front of this exhibit in the museum in Cairo.

Picture of King Tut's facial reconstruction

In 2005, National geographic used 3D CT scans to create a forensic reconstruction.

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And then the just released photographs of the face from the past. The asymmetrical head, the wonderful buck teeth, the high cheeks bones

29th Dec 2006, the day we were on the west bank of Nile, we casually skirted the tomb, pausing merely to take a picture. Do I regret not going in - sure - I regret not seeing so many places in Egypt that the list is itself worthy of a blog ...

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Map image

September 08, 2007

Egyptian Cindrella

Cindrella was written in the 26th egyptian dynasty (about 3000 years before Walt Disney)

The Red slippers

August 26, 2007

Dixon's relics

In September 1872, Waynman Dixon discovered a shaft in the north wall of the Queen's chamber of the Great Pyramid of Khufu.

Unlike the 1993 Wepwawet experiment, Dixon used a crude metal rod to probe the shaft and found three objects tumbling down the shaft: A small bronze hook, a granite ball and a piece of cedar-like wood.

Dixon relics

The objects were taken to England and recorded by the  Astronomer Royal of Scotland and handed back to Dixon. After which they disappeared only to reappear in the British museum (This is not the first time I have heard artifacts disappearing all over the world only to reappear mysteriously in the British museum, anyway)

Here is a theory which hypothesizes that the objects, known as the Dixon relics, are part of an ancient Egyptian geometrical spherical measuring instrument of surveying and astronomy which may have been used while building the Great Pyramid.

"This working example of a cross type of instrument with a measuring rod set at 45 degrees to the upright , cross bars for sighting and a plumb line shows clearly how linear angles can be found.

An exponential scale of 90 centimeters gives this particular instrument  an accuracy of 3 arc minutes, which is a coincidence with the reported inaccuracy of the pyramid alignment."

I guess, while the "What are these objects" question remains unanswered, the second question is, "What were they doing in the shaft?"

Other good reads

Zahi Hawass's utterly readable article

Where the artifacts disappeared?

An intriguing story

July 22, 2007

Sunil Shinde was here ...

The timeless desire to leave ones stamp on another artisan's work ...

Here is a 150 year old engraving left on the beautiful rocks at Karnak

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And at Abu Simbel (Bottom right corner of the image.. on Ramses forearm)

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600 AD Roman grafitti in the temple of Philae

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1799 graffiti left by the French army

P1010176 And Coptic graffiti :) 2000 year old in the temple of Karnak

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And probably the most famous (and deplorable) of them all .. by Belzoni in Khafre's pyramid

I found a web-site Graffito Graffiti  dedicated entirely to graffiti's on the Egyptian and Sudanese monuments.

The Knows of Sphinx

sphinx - Luigi Mayer

Head of the Great Sphinx

by Luigi Mayer (1755- 1803), a watercolourist and draughtsman produced the monumental volumes The Holy Land (1842) and Views in ancient Egypt and Nubia (1846).

More Information

Voyahe d'Egypte et de Nubie - Frederick Ludwig Norden

A Profile of the Colossal Head of the Sphinx

by Frederik Ludwig Norden (1708-1742) from the book Voyage d'Egypte et de Nubie

A PROFILE OF THE COLOSSAL HEAD OF THE SHINX - Frederik Ludwig Norden Norden again...

Norden was the first illustrator to draw the Sphinx without the nose ...
Gerome__Jean___Leon_The_Sphinx_fine_art_print_b Napoleon and the Sphinx
by Jean-Leon Gerome (1834 - 1904)
Sphinx-second-pyramid-Description-Egypt La description de l'Egypte by Edgar Cayce
View of the head of the Great Sphinx and the second Pyramid View of the head of the Great Sphinx and the second Pyramid
by Louis-Francoi Cassas (1756-1827)

approach-of-the-simoon Approach of the Simoon by David Roberts
(1796 to 1864)

In this picture, David take a bit of poetic liberty is placing the sun on the wrong side.

David's other paintings of Egypt and Nubia
m503501_d0216159-000_p Le Sphinx, et les pyramides de Mykerinos, Kheops et Chephren
by Craplet Louis Amable(1822-1867)
P1000510 The duality of the Sphinx by Sunil Shinde (1972- )

July 09, 2007

Were ancient Egyptians surgeons?

This is the photograph of a famous relief found on the rear wall of the temple of Sobek in Kom Ombo. While it is widely believed that they could as well be instruments of cult used for rituals, Egypt does not cease to impress and surprise.

I can see forceps, tongs, needles ...

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It is also said that Imhotep was as proficient a surgeon as an architect he was ...

July 05, 2007

Egypt::Day 7:: Edfu - the land of the horus

Over the night, out cruise crossed the ancient locks of Esna and landed up at the Temple of Edfu

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(An oil painting by David Roberts - sketched in Edfu 1839 and completed later in his studio)

Built between 237BC and 57BC by six Ptolemies, this temple is in a fabulous shape and is smaller only than the temple of Karnak in size.

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We entered through these gigantic 118 ft pylons and once again got lost in the nebulous world of ancient beliefs.

P1000881 Huge 35 feet motifs on the entrance pylon
P1000900 Beautiful hieroglyphics and carvings through out the temple walls
P1000903 Slaying of the hippopotamus, a symbol of Seth - the mortal enemy of Horus
P1000911 The huge status of Horus
P1000919 Ancient Egyptians understood the way light plays on stationary objects as well as some of the modern photographers .
P1000906 Passageway between the inner temple and outer temple
P1000905 Images of the truimp of the Horus, depicted beautifully on the temple walls

At the end of the day, we were very close to monument exhaustion. There is only so much a mind can take ... :)

July 04, 2007

Egypt::Day 6:: Colossi of Memnon

On the way back from the Habu Temple, almost as an after thought, the driver stopped at the Colossi of Memnon. Used to seeing the smallest of the monuments in US taken care of like crown jewels, I was surprised to see the bust road passing by so close to the monument.

The statues are awe inspiring, like most other things in Egypt. At the same time, the quartzite sculptures, which once upon a time framed the entrance to Amenhotep III's temple, look desolate and lonely.

(Believe it or not: The statues were called Shammy and Tammy, a possible corruption of Arabic words for left and right)

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The northern colossus lost a part of its torso during an earthquake in 27BC. Sometime after that the status started emitting a strange musical note (widely believed to be Amenhotep greeting his mother EOS). In 299BC, Roman emperor Septimus Severus "repaired" and silenced the ancient king.

I wanted to go down to the statue to see the ancient Greek graffiti left by tourists visiting the signing statue, but ran out of time.

A video captured on the way back from the colossi

June 04, 2007

Egypt::Day6::Valley of Kings and Deir-El Bahri

(Photos @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sunilshinde)

In the Old Kingdom, the pharoahs built soaring pyramids. The buried the pharoahs in them with untold wealth. The pyramids took a toll on the economies of the country as well as the psyche of the people. This led to a major backlash in the Middle Kingdom. Civil wars broke out. Anarchy begins. Tombs were raided and mummies uprooted and thrown into Nile. Towards New Kingdom, the pharoahs were more inclined at "hiding" their tombs. They selected the area now known as the valley of the kings for it. the valley has a natural pyramid shaped mountain overlooking it. Tombs were dug in unaccessible areas. the pharoahs concentrated on making the tomb richer through paitings and carvings.

A visitor is allows entry to three tombs on a day on a ticket. We visited two. The tomb of "Tausert and Setnakht" and Ramses IV.

Both the tombs are lovely.

Theirs is is one of the largest tomb of the valley.

The tomb was originally commisioned for Tausert who was the queen and wife of Seti II. Setnakht the father of Ramses III had commisioned a tomb for him seld though Ramses III against the wishes of his father interred his father in Tauserts tomb and took over Setnakht's tomb for himself.

Cameras are not allowed inside the tomb which clearly did not prevent from Vijay reeling of two two quick shots.

We then moved to Deir-El Bahri to see queen Hatshepsut's temple.

Hers is a story of grit and ambition and corruption and deceipt and pursuite of power. Jackie Collins woud have been prud to have penned it

She was daughter of Tuthmoses I and Aahmes. WHen she lost both her two brothers and her father, she married her half brother Tuthmoses II. Tuthmoses took over the throne and records show that Hatshepsut ruled alongside the king, albeit, behind the scenes. Tuthmoses II died of a skin disease within 3/4 years of becomg the king. WHile he had not children with Hathshepsut, he has sired a son, Tuthmoses III, through a concubine Isis.

Hatshepsut sent Tuthmoses III first to Cairo and then to Karnak to learn military and religion respectively and took over the thrown in lieu of her stepson/nephew.

She ruled for about 15 tears untill her death is 1458. And she ruled with charisma. She was an able administrator and politician. She left behind more monuments and works of art than any ther women ruler. She undertook non-military campaigns to Punt (present day somalia) in search of ivory, spices, gold and aromatic trees.

As a women king, she faced turmoil and resistance. She used every trick in the book and inventing a few to stay in control. She annoited herself as the direct daughter of God Amun-Ra. She completely hid her feminity and depicted herself as a man in every statue and monument. She wore the entire pharao regalia including the false beard. She used the festival of Opet to show that god was on her side. Mesmerizing stuff.

She was the target of Tuthmoses IIIs wrath once he ascended the throne. He destroyed her monuents, and tried to systematically erase all mention, text and scukptures of hers from the temples.

How she died is not known and  her mummy was never found

Her lover and architect in chief, Senenumut, built the extremely modern looking temple at Dar-El Bahiri 

Here are two more monuments she built. The one on the left is a Sphinx at Memphis, while the one on the right is the obelisk in the temple of Karnak. The wall Tuthmoses III built around it is visible in the picture.

Egypt::Day 5 :: Luxor East bank

(Photos @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sunilshinde)

A red-eye brought us to the city of Luxor (derived from Al-uk sur – meaning fortifications in Arabic).

After checking into our cruise, we started the day with Karnaka temple.  Karnak temple is the largest temple complex in the world spread over 247 acres and built over several hundred years by several kings.

Every buildings, pillar, pylon, obelisk in this temple is huge. It was impossible to shoot a piece without adding an item for scale.

The hypostye hall is considered one of the most amazing architectural feat. This place requires eyes and imagination in equal part as the cieling above the 82 feet high papyrus column is now missing. The ceiling would ensure complete darkness in the hall with the traceried windows throwing a pencil of light here and there like a wealthy squandering coins to at barefooted derelicts on an evening walk.

The columns symbolized the force of life with their roots plunged in the water of nun (underground water table) and stems thrust upwards with the corolla opened to the sky of the blue plaited cieling.

Karnak temple also has Queen hatshepsut's obelisk along with a wall built around it by her stepson Tuthmosis III. Hathshepsut is an interesting story and will cover it under a separate blog.

I liked the temple of Luxor for its imperfection. Rather, one imperfection. The axis of the temple is tilted, unlike Egyptian architecture that was paranoid about truw north and linearity and symmetry. While there are a bunch of theories, the one that makes sense to me if that the colonnade and the courtyard was build by Amenhotep III much after the temple was built by Ramses II.

Ramses II build the temple independent of the Karnak temple. The dromos which connects the two temple was an afterthought. The change of axis was to aligning the courtyard with the dromos. Simple.

June 03, 2007

Egypt::Day 4: Giza Plateau, Saqqara, Memphis

(Photos @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sunilshinde)

Pyramids were built in Egypt primarily during the III, IV, V and VI dynasties. In those 500 years, over 120 pyramids have been built. We started our day off with the Giza plateau. Khufu (aka Great Pyramid) and Khafre’s resting places were, unpretentiously, visible from the courtyard of our hotel. So there was hardly a circumstantial drama behind “the first time I laid my eyes on the pyramid”. It sucked my breath away anyways. You cannot be prepared for the sight of the pyramid. No matter how well you have researched, all numbers (755 feet average base length, 481 feet tall with the slides sloping  at 51 degrees 50 minutes 40 second) do not tell the story.

While the sheer magnitude of the structure had the impact of suppressing all vocal utterances for a few moments, the mental machinery reminded me that this is nothing more than a kings empty alter ego, as empty as the sarcophagus in the Kings’s chamber in the heart of the pyramid.

We had reached the plateau a little too late for us to enter Khufus pyramid as they sell only 150 tickets at 8:00 AM and 100 more at noon. Though we corrected this mistake on the last day of our trip, today, we paid the extra LE25 to enter Khafre’s pyramid. Inside I saw Belzoni’s graffiti dating back to 1820 (Belzoni, after all his Indiana Jones like adventures, dies of.. ahem... dysentery).

While the Great Pyramid is the ideogram of choice for Egypt, it is definitely not the most beautiful, as I realized during the due course of the trip. As dynasties went by, the kings concentrated on making their tombs prettier.

We moved on to Saqquara, 20 KMs to the south of Giza to the lesser known but an equally important pyramid called the Stepped pyramid.

This pyramid, designed by Imhotep in the 27th century  was the first pyramid ever and was a circumstantial improvisation to camouflage a design flaw. Imhotep realized that the mastaba he had designed and constructed for King Djoser was barely visible over the enclosure wall, so he decided to raise it by adding a step. He liked it so much that he added four more. He then broadened the base of these steps to add the final two steps. I have marked the original structure in the photo below. The extention is clearly visible. 

Imhotep is the first named architect and physician in written history of the world. He went on to become a major father figure of pyramidial architecture in Egypt to an extent that he was upgraded to the status of God. Imhotep was also considered to be surgeon par excellence. In the temple complex of Kom Ombo , there is a relief of surgical instruments being offered to Imhotep.

In the meantime, Seferu, King Djoser’s son, liked the pyramid so much that he had three more built. The Bent pyramid (the structure on the left in the photo below) at Dahsur which was the first attempt to built a smooth (non stepped) pyramid, was again a design disaster.

The architect, started out by building at 55 degrees for the first 154 and realized that the pyramid would be too steep and changed the angle to 43 degrees for the rest of the 200 odd feet .

The north pyramid (right most in the photo above) is the first accurate pyramid and was used as a scale for subsequent pyramids. Interestingly, it took the egyptians just 60 years (Stepped pyramid complete to Khufu pyramid construction started) to perfect the art of building pyramids.

While the great pyramid has a lot of interesting statistics about accuracy (base levelled to within 1 inch, less than 3 minutes deviation from true north), subsequent endeavors including Khafre and Mankaure pyramids degraded ending up with what is now, sadly, known as a scrambled pyramid which is nothing more than a pile of dirt and stone. The scrambled pyramid is less than a stone’s throw from the stepped pyramid bringing the story of the pyramids a full circle.

Day 3:: Coptic Cairo and Museum

(Photos @: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sunilshinde)

Mrs. Hana is our designated egyptologist for the two days in Cairo.  She is a perfect antitheses of a female egyptian stereotype.  Well educated (she completed her bachelors in civil engineering before giving it up to be a guide), fluent english, non conservative thought process.

We started our day by visiting the Egyptian Museum.  It is said, that if you spend a minute in front of every item in the museum, it would take you 9 months to complete your tour. And all we had were 200 minutes.

There are a few articles which left a lasting impression.

Sitting scribe

This is a IV dynasty old kingdom limestone piece and comes from a tomb inj Saqqara. The details are amazing. Anatomy was clearly well understood and replicated. The handlig of limestone is as good as it can get. The face shows immense concentration. the eyes do not look at you even if you stand in front of it depicting, again, the concentration. The hair have been pushed back over the ears to allow for better hearing. The muscles on the hands are taut as if ready to write.   

Narmer Stele

Narmer ruled Egypt in the 32nd century BC and was the founder of the first dynasty. The faceplate (left in the picture above) shows Narmer slaying his enemy, the king of the northern Egypt. This palette shows the first unification of north (lower) and south (upper Egypt) egypt.

What facinates me the most is the other side of the palette (right in the picture). It shows two animals with long necks. Almost look like Brachisaurus. Were ancient egyptians paleontologists as well ??

Tutankhamun's headrest

Every object found in Tutankamun's tomb is precious and beautiful.

I like the headrest the most because of how modern and timeless it is. You could probably find it in a Pottery and Barn catalogue

Egypt Day 1 + 2 :: Seattle to Cairo

I like the dude in the flight safety video. He is so cool in the face of calamity. He actually manages to find the life vest under the seat (my furtive groupes have perpetually failed to locate the life saving device), manages to get the clasps in the right hoops as the aeroplane lands on water, and jumps on to the raft knowing fully well that the vest will self-inflate when it comes in contact with water and in case it does not, he is confident of his ability to find the inlet on his shoukder and blow enough air into the rubber tube to displace his own weight while he effortlessly navigates choppy seas. I guess he should simply rip off his clothes to display the large yellow S on the blue background and fly off

The little LCD displaying a map embedded in the back of the headrest in front of you in the airplane is a great invention especially with kids around. The ususal "Are we there yet?" can be met with " Sweety, when this lil airplane goes across all this blue and over the green and brown and meets this triangle, we will be there." That is way too much ionformation for Rhea and I can see her go goggle-eyed. I guess not being able to say AWTY takes away half her pleasure of travelling. The other half depends on how many surprises Gayatri and I have managed to secret away in our little carry-on.

Tracking the lil aeroplane on the LCD over Europe is exhilirating as exotic places  like Dusseldorf, Cologne, Hague, Naples, Geneva, Luxemborg, Dortmund all seem just a (parachute) drop away.

Rhea travels well. Comfortable, self assured, goes with the blow, does not resist, takes as it comes, sleeps easily. Good for her.

We change from United to Luftansa at Frankfurt and the difference in the flying experience is immediately apparent. The Luftansa aircraft, with its typical german design manage to make the seating more ergonomic with a little knob to hang a purse, a little glass holder etc   

We land in Cairo after 15 hours of flying.Not sure if it was the thick draft of warm air or various smell and odours simultaneously invading the nostrils or the multilingual no holds barred loud hubub or the explosion of brown faces, Rhea's first words as she walkedout of the airport were, "Papi,  I am pretending this is India...". She did steal my thought.

The hotel is situated on the Giza plateau right next to the pyramids. The hotel has 5 restaurants and not one of them, to our disappointment, authentic egytian. The hotel had a high profile garish wedding in it foyer attended by local gliterati and a loud singing band. We stepped out for a small walk and discovered the limestone clad Khafre on the horizon. Khufu's silhouette soon became apparent and an excited Rhea wanted to walk to it immediately.

We stumbled upon a egyptian hole in the wall next door where we had our first cups of bitter and muddy turkish coffee.

We also ran into our first egyptian smooth talking salesman who tried to sell us perfumes made using recipes found in king tut's tomb. Frankly we all liked the perfume though the thought of shelling out egyptian pounds without looking around did not appeal to our senses. We came back with promices to return and suddenly Ashref was no longer smooth.